12.02.96 - 17.02.96 Lao Bao - Savannakhet 240 Km 05.03.96 - 02.04.96 Vientiane- Boten 700 Km
Visa
There are two types of visa. The 5-7 days transit visa, wich costs 25 U$, and the 14 days tourist visa for around 100 U$. In Hanoi I got a transit visa, and later in Non Khai (Thailand) a tourist visa. In Vientiane it's possible to extend the tourist visa for another 2 weeks, it cost's 3 U$ a day. If you overstay it will cost 5 U$ per day. It was my most expensive visa, overall I paid 180 U$. The bordercrossings are no problem.
Money
1 U$ = 930 Kip. In Vientiane you can get cash with the creditcard
Roads
Generally not too good. Lao Bao to Savannakhet is o.k., maybe 20% isn't paved. From Vientiane to Louangphrabang there is a new road, wich is almost finished. From Louangphrabang to Ban Nam Bak their building a new road, but when I passed they still had a lot to work. It's all dirtroad and because it was raining it took me 3 days for the 120 Km. From there to the border it's paved again but that probably was done 100 years ago.
Traffic
Almost nothing. In the cities there are a lot of Tuk-Tuks, but otherwise just a few trucks and pickups.
Accomodation
There are hotels, but not everywhere. Usually quit cheap, 2000 - 4000 Kip.If there isn't any hotel, you can ask for a place to sleep in a village, probably they'll find a place for you, but you're expected to pay something.
Food
In Vientiane there are many restaurants and you can eat any kind of food. Otherwise there are different sorts of rice (fried rice, sticky rice) and fruits.
People
Cycling through the villages in Laos sometimes I felt like John Lennon. Everybody was screaming. Generally people were very friendly. Probably that will change when more and more tourists visit Laos.
Language
I had a phrasebook and managed to survive with it. Being an old french colony you still meet french speakers and as an old ally of the soviet union russian is still quit common.
Prices
Cheap and you don't have any hassles with bargaining.
Bicycle parts
Hopeless.
Dangers
The malaria in Laos is supposed to be quit dangerous. I didn't get malaria but diarrhoe twice. Between Vientiane and Louangphrabang there were talks about rebels/druglords fighting against the government, there where some tanks standing on the road but everything was calm. There are still a lot of unexploded US Bombs from the Vietnam war lying around.
28.2.98/chs - picture by Christoph Sauser